wine and food guide

BREAKING NEWS ~ LA VENDIMIA

Sunday August 22nd ended the official celebrations of the Fiestas de la Vendimia with the paella competition in San Antonio de las Minas. The L.A. Cetto family winery has two more events planed for September and October, but now that the parties are over. it’s time for the 2010 harvest in the wine valleys surrounding Ensenada. Again, I’ll remind folks to plan early next year (April) in order to get tickets for the Fiestas de la Vendimia event. tickets are ALWAYS hard to come by because a large portion are sold to private vendors, thus leaving locals in a difficult situation to find any tickets unless they move fast, well in advance. For best results or to insure ticket purchases (100%) I suggest you visit (in person) the office of Provino next April to get your name on the waiting list, or forever hold your peace. Tickets were available on-line this year, but they went fast. Comité Provino Ave Lopez Mateos No. 582-208 Zona Centro, Ensenada BC. Contact: www.provinoac.org, www.fiestasdelavendimia.com, info@provinoac.org Phone: 646 178-3038.

Harvest season is upon us in Mexico’s premier wine country. I walked thru my vineyard of Nebbiolo grapes today, tested the Brix (sweetness) level of my grapes at about 20% Brix. I’m planing to harvest somewhere between 24-26 this year, so that means probably about 7-10 more days before harvest. many other vineyard managers are either in the process of picking fruit, or are making planes to harvest soon. The white grapes usually ripen first, followed by the red varietals. This season has been the coolest summer in the last 78 years, so we are seeing a later harvest with some inconsistent ripening of the fruit in some areas. Last winter we were blessed with an abundance of rain, so water shortages were not an issue this summer. So far, everything looks good for the 2010 harvest, but it was sort of a strange year as far as weather in the grape growing regions of Baja California.

This year has been a period of long-deserved recognition for the premium wines in this region. Several new wineries have spouted up with some coming from nowhere towards the top of the pack as far as quality. The newest super stars are: CA 126 or Madera 5, Viñas de Garza, Las Nubes, Vinart, and Emeve. In fact, Emeve took the Grand Award for the top Mexican wine for 2010 at the Annual International Wine Competition in Ensenada on August 7th and 8th. Their 2008 Malbec received the top honors. Winemaker Reynaldo Rodrigues harvested 100 % Malbec at 13.5 % alcohol and transformed it into a remarkable and elegant wine of great finesse. This wine is a perfect match for red meats and pastas in spicy/herbal red sauces. We’ll be featuring this winery in the next addition of the Baja Times as well as on our TV show, The Grapevine.

Starting September 10th, we’ll be hosting “Dinners with Winemakers” in Guadalupe Valley on the second Friday evening of each month. Hacienda Guadalupe has opened their new restaurant where we’ll be hosting bilingual presentations each month. Our first guest winemaker/owner is Antonio Escalante of Roganto Winery. Our talented Chef Omar Garcia will match three premium wines with a three course dinner. Live music, valley view sunsets, and unsurpassed hospitality will greet lucky wine and gourmet cuisine lovers in this new valley view restaurant. Rooms will be available at special pricing for those who want to spend the night, and/or take a bilingual van tour of the wine country on Saturday morning at discount pricing of $20 person, tasting fees and lunch are additional. For reservations or information: (646) 151-3273 Mex. (714) 313-5138 US www.haciendaguadalupehotel.com. Wineries to be featured beginning September 10th and the second Friday of each month at Hacienda Guadalupe Restaurant will be: Roganto, La Garza, Tres Mujeres. Tres Valles, LaFarga, Madera 5, Bibayoff, Pijoan, Emeve, Hacienda La Lomita, L.A. Cetto, JC Bravo, Vinart, Encino, and more.

Our TV show, The Grapevine ~ Mexican Wine and Culinary Adventures, filmed at several Fiestas de la Vendimia events this summer and we want to thank Provino and David Bibayoff for their generous support. Between our wine column in the Baja Times (six years) with Vino-Tourism at Mexidata.info and now the TV show at Varivision Cable 8 of Ensenada, we have been able to spread the news about “Mexico’s Silent Revolution in Creating World-Class Wine” and letting the word out about how Ensenada has become “The Wine and Culinary Capital of Mexico.” During the remainder of 2010 and into 2011 we’ll be filming at several wineries in the region and then taking their best wines to top culinary establishments in the area for wine and cuisine marriages in a bilingual format with subtitles. You can view clips of these shows, purchase DVD’s and access the most current and accurate wine country information at: www.bajawineandcusine.com.

Somehow we survived the Vendimia Fiestas season after attending and filming at many incredible events. The La Cofradia event was fantastic, the Paella event remarkable, and the concert at Baron Balch’e was transformational. Paco Renteria with three gifted guitar players, one phenomenal horn player, a lively flute player and soulful drummer performed some magical compositions to a happily wine-infused international group. Our crew was hoping to get some sleep now that the fiestas are over, but today we must tend our vineyards and make our wine. Life is always good in Mexico’s premier wine country. The wines keep getting better and the artisans who craft gourmet cuisine, olive oils, local cheese and other culinary delights are becoming skilled at marrying their culinary treats wit our premium wines. Next time you are feeling like an adventure, come discover the truth about living the “good life” in Baja California. Most likely, the Rosarito Beach and Ensenada region offers some of the “best quality of living in the world” for the money. In addition, we have a new supply of wine, abundant fresh seafood, many gourmet culinary venues, organic fruit and vegetables, all situated in or near a seaport setting with Mediterranean-like weather. The cost of living in Baja California is about one-third that of California, offering retirees and independent business owners a golden opportunity to enjoy the good life at discount pricing. Visit the wine country of this region and witness for yourselves our premium wines, gourmet restaurants and experience quality “life in the slow lane.”

Steve Dryden is a wine, food, and travel writer living in Mexico’s premier wine country where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com. For accurate and updated wine country information written by folks who actually drink wine, grow grapes and create wine, please visit our web site: www.bajawineandcuisine.com

XVIII Concurso Internacional: “Ensenada, Tierra del Vino”

The 18th annual International wine competition took place at the Hotel Coral and Marina on Saturday and Sunday August 7th and 8th. This was the largest wine competition ever held in this region with over 225 wines from eleven countries. Wines judged were from: Mexico, United States, France, Spain, Italy, Bulgaria, Uruguay, Chile, Argentina, South Africa and Portugal. The Baja Times was invited to be an international media observer, and to help spread the word about the winners for 2010.
The event hosted twenty-four international judges from five countries and was organized by the staff and students of UABC of Ensenada. The judges were provided with individual computers to rate the wines, allowing the results to be calculated immediately. In comparison, many countries still tally results using pencil and paper. Mexico is rapidly emerging with premium wines and modern technical communication abilities. This competition is leading the way in setting standards for comprehensive and accurate wine judging results. This event is one of the first held in the 2010 Fiestas de la Vendimia beginning on August 6th and lasting for sixteen days. www.fiestadelavendima.com
The 24 international judges were guided out to the wine country to visit Monte Xanic and Bibayoff wineries. Varivision Cable TV of Ensenada, sent crew members from The Grapevine: Mexican Wine and Food Adventures, to film the event, interview judges and organizers. Those video clips as well as contest results will be available at: www.bajawineandcuisine.com
The winners for the 2010 competition are:
Malbec from Emeve Winery of Baja California received the top award for Best Wine. The top twelve winners of gold are: La Farga Syrah 2005, 2005 Nebbiolo from Victor Torres Alegre, 2008 Nebbiolo Las Nubes Winery, 2006 Syrah La Farga winery, 2008 Tempranillo from Robledo Family Winery, 2007 Tempranillo from Robledo Family of Sonoma, 2005 Mencia from Peique winery, 2005 Aglianico from Azienda Vinicola Rivera, 2005 Shiraz/Merlot from Alto Landon winery. Vitivinicola won a second gold for their 2008 Shiraz. Overall, the top ten wines came from: Mexico 3. Spain 4, Italy 1, Sonoma 1, S. Africa 1.
This competition shows that a new breed of winemakers are making world class wines in this region and in other countries. If you view the complete list of winners, you’ll notice that the old school wineries has been upstaged by several new vintners. One fact is certain in the world of wines, things change with each vintage. The real story lies in the bottle, not in the marketing hypes. Open your mind and your palate, try some new wines.
Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico’s premier wine country where he guides small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com, www.winefoodguide.com or www.bajawineandcuisine.com

Breaking Wine News from Mexico

I’m the international media observer for the annual International Wine Competition at Ensenada, Baja California. We are tasting 225 wines from eleven countries with 24 global wine judges and experts. This is the largest wine event of this type ever held in Mexico.

The countries represented are: Mexico, Spain, France, Italy, South Africa, Chile, Argentina, Bulgaria, Uruguay, California and Portugal.
I’ll be posting the results here on Sunday night. Or visit: www.bajawineandcuisine.com

Mexico is finally getting much attention for their premium wines, Nebbiolo, Tempranillo and Grenache seem to be the rising stars as well as Rhone varietals.

Watch a clip on my TV show and see/hear what James Suckling thinks about Mexican wine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmmKK6nj9KM

The World of Wine
with Steve Dryden
Wine Steals: A Haven of Pleasure

Wine Steals wine bar and retail store in Point Loma is my “wine ashram” whenever I’m looking for an escape into the the culture of premium wine at reasonable prices, culinary delights, ambiance, and relaxation among good people.” Fortunately for other wine and food lovers, they now have three locations near Mission Valley and one at Cardiff by the Sea. A fifteen minute drive from the Valley can have you enjoying a wide variety of wines in Mission Hills, Point Loma or downtown at their newest location in Petco Park. Casual or serious wine lovers can choose from a diverse selection of 40 global wines, allowing wise consumers an opportunity to mix and match, or create your own wine flights as you please. For example, I often choose a half glass portion, thus giving me exposure to as many wines as possible and allows for matching different wine varietals and blends with some of their tantalizing culinary options. The big bonus for “safety- conscious drinkers” is that the three San Diego locations are easy accessed by public transportation, and are located in areas that are perfect for walking and enjoying unique San Diego neighborhoods. In fact, you could take the bus or trolley from Mission Valley and be enjoying wine, artisan cuisine and good company in twenty minutes.

Wine Steals retail stores offer over 300 bottles of wine at “super value” pricing. In addition, the staff is very knowledgeable about their wine inventory and can direct you to your palate and budget needs in the drop of a cork. One awesome feature allows you to purchase a bottle of wine to enjoy “in-house” for a $5 corkage fee on any bottles of wine priced under $15, or $7 for those priced over $15. This is one of the few establishments where you can purchase bottles of wine for close to wholesale pricing, and then match it up with gourmet pizza, or other culinary delights from their menu. My friends and I love the fact that we can purchase bottles of wine “in-house” while enjoying conversation, cuisine and a variety of wines at reasonable prices. And, when we ready want to pinch our pennies, Wine Steals has a phenomenal program for Happy Hour.

Happy hour varies at each location, and now you can twitter to get daily specials. Basically, they offer ten different glasses of wine for $4 each and offer $2 pizza slices on Monday thru Thursdays from 4 p.m until 7 p.m or Fridays, wine only, no $2 pizza slices. In addition, wine tasting events are held every Tuesday at the Hillcrest location, every Wednesday at Point Loma and Cardiff from 5:30 to 7 p.m. These tasting events provide a unique opportunity to enjoy a diverse portfolio of wines while expanding your wine consciousness for only $5, unless otherwise specified. Another cool option is happy hour on Saturday and Sunday. Saturdays from 4 until 6:30 p.m is their $10 tasting where you can sample 10-15 wines they carry in the retail store. Sundays at 11 a.m they offer half-priced red and white wine flights until they run out of wine. For $10 you get 6 half-glasses (tastes) of wines that are opened on the bar. They generous wine adventure allows you a nice option of tasting the product before you buy. Monday nights are cork-free bottle nights at all our locations, meaning any bottle that is bought to be consumed in-house can be purchased and consumed at the retail price.

I should mention that the wine world does tolerate beer drinkers, so no worries. Wine Steals offers a vast array of craft, micro, and international beers. Draft beer is available in both our Point Loma and Cardiff locations, with a beer cooler at all our locations. Their selection is broad with budget pricing. Some examples of inventory are: Stone Brewing, Port Brewing, and Ballast Point. They also feature an international selection of beer, everything from “Belgian specialties to British favorites and all spots between.”

One of the attractions of Wine Steals is their simple, yet diverse menu of culinary delights that often pairs perfectly with a broad range of wines. For example the culinary wizards in their kitchens create artisan pizza, salads, cheese boards, cheese/cured meat boards, desserts and much more. My favorite two pizzas are the Chardonnay, featuring a blush sauce, smoked gouda, sliced apple, shredded pork, bacon, mozzarella and red onion. If I’m feeling a little more “health-conscious” I usually go for the Pinot Noir with prosciutto, shaved asiago, white truffle oil, topped with arugula and garnished with red bell pepper.

Next time you’re in the mood to explore Wine Steals, grab your friends and jump on the trolley to visit one of the convenient locations near Mission Valley at: Hillcrest ~ 1243 University Avenue, Point Loma ~ 2970 Truxtun Rd., Cardiff ~ 1953 San Elijo Ave., Wine Steals East Village ~ 793 and 795 J Street in Petco Park. For updates or nightly specials you can twitter: Hillcrest: http://twitter.com/wshillcrest, Pt. Loma: http://twitter.com/wine_steals, Cardiff: Cardiff: http://twitter.com/wscardiff.

Steve Dryden is a wine, food, travel writer, and TV host for The Grapevine. He guides wine tours in Baja California (www.bajawineandtours.com) and can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com. View clips of his show at: www.bajawineandcuisine.com or his blog at: www.winefoodguide.com

Guateque 2010: Year of Discovery

Every vintage of Mexican wine brings pleasant surprises as this wine growing region evolves into a global phenomena. The real news about Mexico is that the wine and culinary culture is advancing at a rapid pace, thus fueling our “silent revolution” in creating premium wine. However, we’ve been discovered by serious connoisseurs who are finally listening to what many of us local promoters, wine makers and vineyard managers have been saying for years: “Mexico has the potential to, and is making world-class wine.” In fact, this country has received over three hundred international awards for quality in global wine competitions held in the best wine regions of the world. Serious international wine and food lovers have awoken to the stark reality that Mexico is more than tacos, beer and tequila! 2010 is “the year of discovery” for the distinct wines being produced by talented winemakers in Baja California. The word is out, the secret has been revealed, prepare yourselves.

This year the popular Guateque artisan wine exposition was held at Bibayoff winery in Valle de Guadalupe. The “stars” were the handcrafted, artisan wines created by a diverse collection of passionate people who have recently embraced the art of making wine. Some of these “rising stars” are self-taught, many are graduates of our local wine school at La Escuelita, with a few certified by the new wine making program at UABC in Ensenada. Winemakers at all levels of accomplishment in Mexico are blessed with ripe fruit of superior quality, giving them an important element needed to create high quality wine. The task is to take this “treasured juice” and implement artisan techniques to make drinkable wine. Lately, it seems most folks are getting good with the art form of making good wine from great fruit.

Sometimes it’s hard to get serious and “go to work” at these events, especially after a plate of seafood paella and a few glasses of wine. Despite that, I didn’t come across any wine that wasn’t drinkable, in reality most were emerging in quality from better than average to very good. One outstanding wine comes from Encino or Jorge Cortés of Rancho Cortés. His 2009 Tempranillo is excellent with a nose of plums, black and red cherries flavors, soft and balanced, with hints of vanilla. A little time in the bottle will make this a superb example of what artisan winemakers in Mexico can achieve. Samples of his 2007 Tempranillo simply explains to your palate why Tempranillo is becoming a “star” varietal in Baja California. Jorge has stood out in past events for his high quality handcrafted wines, most likely he’ll go on to become another “star” among Mexico’s best winemakers. In addition, his family produces superior cheese and olive oil in Valle de Guadalupe. Another popular wine and beer maker is handcrafted by Almixia. His passion for producing a diversity of quality products is amazing. Almixia 2008 Grenache shows great promise, nose of sweet, lush cherry with black raspberry, followed by the same flavors ending with an elegant finish. 2009 Almixia in a remarkable blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Tempranillo and Zinfandel.

Several good wines were found in “bottled treasures of delight” from: a delicious 2007 Petite Sirah from Terra Nostra, a “sweet” Zinfandel from Temptation, a full-flavored 2009 Tempranillo from Aledu with smokey notes, and racy tannins, a nice 2009 Cabernet/Petite Sirah blend from Vino Sant Jordi, aka: Vinicola Parres. Winemaker Laura Chanes has another winner with her newest 2009 Algo Petite Sirah, spicy fruit flavors, black cherry with hints of caramel and vanilla, aged in toasted French oak barrels for eight months. Paulette 2009, a wonderful !00% Cabernet Sauvignon, fruit forward with hints of cocoa followed by soft tannins. I also enjoyed the wine from Plata .925, a blend of Zinfandel 33% and Tempranillo 67%. In addition, I was impressed with Tardio 2008 Merlot and wine from Vayu 69. Finally, on my way out the door, I tasted two delightful wines from Abel Bibayoff and an awesome Tempranillo from Eva Cotero Altamirano of Tres Mujeres winery. I do want to mention a newcomer to the Baja California wine scene, Madera 5. Their 2008 Tempranillo/Cabernet blend is a palate pleasing wine of good balance with lots of depth and character. The Tempranillo comes from old vines in Valle de San Vicente adding some structure and complex flavors. This blend was aged for ten months in new American and French oak barrels. Madera 5 is one of those wineries that you might want to follow as they continue to improve and evolve with each vintage.

Guateque 2010 presented a collection of handcrafted wines that further illustrates the vastly improving quality of wines coming from Baja California. Zinfandel,Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Carignan and Petite Sirah appear to be gaining popularity with winemakers and growers as well. Furthermore, the quality of local Cabernet and Merlot continues to improve with intensive vineyard management, the use of new technology, and the creative skills of innovative winemakers.

Serious wine lovers from around the world are now discovering Mexico’s premium wines, so it might be time to fill your cellar with your favorite local wines while you can still find them. Hopefully, the rest of the world won’t discover that Ensenada has become the Wine and Food capital of Mexico. Due to the proximity of the wine country from Ensenada, our chefs have established personal relationships with winemakers and wineries, tasting the available wine inventory daily, while perfecting their skills at matching regional culinary delights with our best wines.

Now that our well-kept secrets are out, let’s hope that the US finishes their border wall, before we’re invaded with wine fanatics and food junkies craving our best wine and gourmet cuisine. Thankfully for us locals, foreigners are only allowed to take one liter of Mexican wine across the border into the US. Otherwise, we may have to call out the troops, check papers of suspected wine drinkers (possibly using profiling techniques) to stop the illegal smuggling of our best wines:)

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico’s wine country where he guides small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com. To find detailed information about Baja wine and gourmet food, please visit: www.bajawineandcuisine.com

Steve Dryden and James Suckling

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BmmKK6nj9KM

Charles Krug Winery: A California Classic

Sitting in the heart of Mexico’s premier wine country listening to an orchestration of Mozart, while dining on Ricotta and Spinach Cannelloni with tomato sauce, complimented with a bottle of Charles Krug Carneros Pinot Noir is a lesson on living the good life! The Peter Mondavi Family Winery is a “California Classic” having been established in 1861 as Napa Valley’s first winery. This is the original Mondavi family winery, purchased in 1943 by Cesare and Rosa Mondavi, parents of Robert and Peter Mondavi. Robert left the family operation early on to walk his own path into history, leaving Cesare, Peter, Peter Jr. and Marc to make their own way along the “yellow brick road” as premium producers of California wine. If longevity and consistent quality means anything, this family operation still remains intact, as they quietly create some of the best wines in the world. Charles Krug winery and the Peter Mondavi family seem content to let their bottles of wine do all the talking, thus no hype.

During the 6th Annual San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival I was fortunate to interview Peter Mondavi Jr. and attend a vertical tasting of seven Cabernet Sauvignon wines from Charles Krug: 1980, 1983, 1995, 1998, 2001, 2004 and 2006. All their “flagship” Cabernets are stunning, but I was particularly taken aback by the 1983 Vintage Selection, aged in 100% French oak for 23 months. This bold wine has a vibrant garnet color with aromas of vanilla and currents, flavors of black cherry and mocha, well balanced structure with an elegant finish. The 1995 Vintage grapes were sourced from Slinsen vineyard, aged in 45% French and 55% American oak barrels for 26 months. Beautiful color, fruit flavors of cherry, plum, currents with hints of mocha and dark cocoa. The finish is addictive, demanding another taste, glass or bottle. The youngest wine (2006) is aged in 100% new French oak for 23 months. Deep rich, ruby red in color, aromas of blackberry with a hint of red licorice, complex flavors enhanced with notes of mocha, cocoa and vanilla. A delightful wine, well balanced with a smooth finish.

Vertical tasting from a specific winery provides an opportunity for dedicated wine lovers to review the “bottled history” of that winery. If the tasting is presented by an informed winemaker or family member who deeply understands the wines, winery operation, and the fruit, they’ll direct your attention, allowing you to taste the difference from each vintage as well as learn what may have created the subtle or extreme changes. For example was it a change in the type of oak barrels used, a change in the blend percentages, new techniques applied in the vineyards, or the magical touch of a new winemaker. Of course, it all could be blamed on the vintage, was it a perfect season versus poor weather, disease within the vines, a lack of moisture or an invasion of pests. Many factors dictate how a particular vintage evolves. Sometimes it is as simple as someone leaving the cellar door opened during the hot summer season.

Having said this, I want to comment on how much I enjoyed the Charles Krug Napa Valley 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. For me, this wine really stood out during the tasting, and later I learned why I tasted subtle differences in this wine. The grapes were harvested from their organic vineyards of Slinsen, Voltz and St. Helena. In addition the blend was somewhat different from the other 100% Cabernets with 85% Cabernet, 9% Petit Verdot, 3% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc, 1% Malbec and 1% Syrah. And, instead of using the regular 100% new French oak barrels, they used 90% French, 10% American oak of which 82% were new barrels. This wine was fruit forward with deep structure, amazing aromas of cloves and red cherries, flavors of current and caramel, followed by soft tannins. If you let your palate guide you, it’s easy to discover the various expressions of the grape, and the many influences that contribute to that “bottled treasure of delight.” In many ways, bottles of wine are really little time capsules, holding the history of that vintage, the weather, the touch of the artist, TLC, types of barrels used or not, and many other key elements. One fact is obvious, the Peter Mondavi family does whatever is needs to present wine lovers with premium world-class wine. They offer three distinct tiers of wine with their Napa Valley and 1861 Appellation Wines, Family Reserve and Limited Release. The varietals offered are: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Rosé, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Peter Mondavi Jr. is an upbeat person with a down-to-earth sensibility about him. His family has been successful in keeping the winery together as a family owned business. According to Peter Jr. “family is foremost and remains the first priority!” He spoke with me on several topics concerning the current status of the wines and the modernized winery operation. I asked Peter “as Napa Valley’s first winery, where do you stand today as far as producing quality wine.” He replied: “well, we continue to improve and advance the quality of our wines. We’ve made some very sweeping changes in the last decade to address every aspect of our winemaking process. We’ve replanted most of our vineyards because they were getting old, virused and diseased (with varieties we no longer produce) thus, we replanted them using much higher density from approximately 500 plants per acre to now up to about 1500 plants per acre. In addition, we are using some recently isolated clones from UC Davis and Bordeaux, France (some exceptional quality Cabernet clones) that we’ve planted throughout our vineyards, using newer trellising techniques as well. We’ve really dramatically changed the vineyards, and our winemaking as well. We’ve gone to much smaller fermentation tanks so we can keep individual blocks of grapes separate. And, over the last ten years we’ve gone to a much more aggressive French oak barreling program that has improved the quality of our wines immensely. We continue to evolve our wines based on what’s happening on the international scene, For example, our Sauvignon Blanc, some years ago we changed from a somewhat traditional California Sauvignon Blanc to a New Zealand style. Even though we had been around for so long and have been emerged in the industry for many years, we still continue to improve, change and advance our wines.”

I asked Peter about his family’s recent investment of over $21 million dollars in restructuring of 450 acres of vineyards to high quality red Bordeaux varietals, and why do the Bordeaux varietals appeal to their family? Is it a right fit for Napa or a personal preference? He replied, “It is really driven by the local environment. If you go to Europe, go to Burgundy, go to Bordeaux, visit parts of Italy, they have all learned which variety does best in their region. And, over the many decades it’s been clearly demonstrated how Napa Valley produces exceptional world-class Bordeaux red varietals. So really, I think that’s the driving factor. We’re not trying to put a round peg in a square hole, but trying to grow varieties that are better suited elsewhere in California’s other regions or the world for that matter. We’re focused on what does best in the local environment. It really started in the 1960’s and 70’s in Napa, about which varietals do better there.

I spoke with Peter about the fact that his family has made dramatic improvements in the winemaking process with a special winery just for handcrafted wines, installation of belt conveyors for better fruit selection and sorting, smaller fermentation tanks to isolate certain quality blocks of fruit, drastic improvements to the barrel room conditions and the implementation of night harvesting techniques to protect the integrity of the fruit flavors. So, I asked him, “how have these innovations affected the overall quality of your wines? Do you see a difference in the barrel samples and in the bottle? Peter responded, “Yes, very clearly. Recently with every subsequent vintage that we’re coming out with, we see a continued improvement based on all these details. Producing quality wine of this caliber in Napa Valley (or anywhere for that matter) you really have to be paying attention to the details. Our wine is not a mass-produced, commodity-type wine, these are handcrafted artisan wines. All the details matter, it’s the picking and sorting aspect of the process, how you treat the wine in the tank, keeping the grape lots separate ~ so you can assess each block for vineyard quality. You have to be sensitive to all the details and variations that occur. Through those processes and having the proper equipment, sorting the grapes (as an example) has really brought our wine to higher levels, and continues to make our wine better and better.”

Finally, I asked Peter two important questions, the first being, “what do you consider to be your flagship wine?” He said, “the flagship wine for Charles Krug is our Vintage Select Cabernet Sauvignon that has been produced since 1944, however we don’t produce it for every vintage. There has been some vintages that don’t meet our standards and we don’t produce that year.” Lastly, I asked Peter, “if you were faced with the option of only drinking one of your wines for the rest of your life, what would that be, why and what would you match it up with?” He laughed and then stated, “It would be our Sauvignon Blanc and/or our Charles Krug Family Reserve Generations. Now with that said, if I had a great New York strip steak in front of me, it would be our Vintage Select Cabernet! If posed with another option of just our Sauvignon Blanc, it would be great with scallops!

Despite the fact that you don’t read much about Charles Krug wines from reviewers or the wine media, this family-owned artisan winery still produces some of the best wines in the world. Their dedication to the family and to their loyal followers by remaining a small operation with a keen focus on handcrafted wines of superior quality (in limited quantities) has allowed them to continue as a top global producer of fine wines. A wise choice made in staying a small family operation has led to longevity and emerging perfection.

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico’s premier wine country where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached: sbdryden@hotmail.com or www.winefoodguide.com. Watch his TV show: www.bajawineandcuisine.com

Peter Mondavi Jr. ~ Hosting a Vertical Tasting in San Diego

Mexican Wine and Food Web Site

Mexico’s “silent revolution” in creating premium wine and artisan gourmet cuisine is being exposed to international wine and food lovers thanks to the Baja Times wine column and a new web site: www.bajawineandcuisine.com. For the last six years we’ve been promoting the wine culture of Baja California with our wine and artisan gourmet food columns, but due to the global economic downturn we’ve been limited in market exposure. With several folks cloning or copying our efforts, we decided to build a web page that would inform local, national and international wine and food lovers about our region on a global level.

The new Baja wine and cuisine web site contains fourteen pages of up-to-date information about the Baja California wine and food culture. The wine country map is the most accurate one in the industry, with regular updates made as needed. The web site includes three minute video clips of The Grapevine TV show featuring Mexico’s top wineries, best Chefs, gourmet cuisine venues, and wine country events. The Pay-Pal feature allows for purchase of the full forty-five minute DVD productions. One page, Wine Country News Updates presents “breaking news” from the wine country, posted every week to keep you “in the know” about new wine releases, special events, and new venues in the region. Our goal was to build a web page that would be “the definitive site” for those looking for casual or detailed information about wine and gourmet cuisine, written by experts living in the wine country, who have actually researched and documented this region’s transformation as the Wine and Gourmet Food Capital of Mexico. Thus, the web page (in seven languages) was designed around the many questions and inquiries received over the years at the Baja Times and our wine writer concerning our ever-expanding wine and food culture.

Bajawineandcuisine.com contains restaurant reviews and recommendations from top performers in Valle de Guadalupe, Rosarito and Ensenada with a planned expansion into Tijuana. In addition, the site contains DVD footage of in-depth winemaker interviews and food pairings with their wines at the top culinary destinations in the region. The video productions include wine and food events in San Diego which has given Mexico a presence, not only as a premier winemaking and gourmet culinary center, but as an international wine/food promoter. Over the last four months The Grapevine has been previewed in sixteen countries, informing international wine and food lovers about our gastronomical and enological endeavors. Our web has a wine sales page listing international wine sales outlets and brokers who distribute Mexican wine in the USA and abroad. Furthermore, you can get current wine/cuisine event and concert information, contacts, links, and ticket purchase information. Direct links will take you to wineries, restaurants, lodging, wine tours, photo galleries, maps, proven and Discover Ensenada.

The data base of information for this project comes from articles written for the Baja Times, web site design by Kathleen Scott, with promotional DVD presentations from Varivision Cable TV (8) of Ensenada. Due to our daily contact with the wine and culinary industries, we intend to present an accurate web site that reflects the best talent (winemakers/chefs) of our region in a positive, educational and entertaining manner. Questions, suggestions and comments will be greatly appreciated. Our mission: a visit to our web page and you’re presented with a vast amount of valuable and accurate information concerning the wine and culinary industries of Baja California.

Varivision Cable TV of Ensenada provides funding for the DVD productions and the web page, giving us the tools to make global connections and further exposing our region to the world in a positive manner. The first thing that should come to mind when people hear or think about Mexico should be Wine and Gourmet Cuisine. This is our primary focus. Yes, we’ve still have great beer, tequila, uncrowded beaches, an abundance of fresh seafood, near-perfect Mediterranean-like weather, and the most reasonable cost of living in the Americas! Most likely when the world really discovers what Mexico is all about, our government here may have to help the US with their wall, just to keep the masses out of our region. With many US cities and states facing bankruptcy, declining public services, escalating costs and more taxes, Mexico is a viable option. In reality, when you compare cost of living and the quality of life here around Ensenada and the wine country, there is no where on this planet that even comes close. Well, Chile isn’t bad either, but is too far for us.

Current DVD productions from Varivsion and The Grapevine covering the Baja California wine and culinary scene are: Roganto winery and El Rey Sol Restaurant, San Diego Bay Wine and Food Festival, Bibayoff winery and Cafe Orleans, Cooking with the Gastronomical School at UABC and Vinisterra winery, L.A. Cetto winery and Hogaza Bakery, Paso Robles Grand Tasting in San Diego with Wine Seminar, Interview with Wine Spectator writer, James Suckling, Shellfish and New Wine festival at the Esneada Port, Grapevine Flower festival at Adobe Guadalupe Inn and Vineyard, Annual Horse Show and Art at Adobe Guadalupe, and aerial tour of Valle de Guadalupe. In addition, the various shows feature interviews with several top winemakers and chefs in the region giving you an “insiders” view of our local wine and culinary culture. Visit our web site for three minute or forty-five minute presentations in Spanish and English with bilingual captions.

The Mexican wine industry has received over three hundred international awards for excellence in the last five years. Monte Xanic, Liceaga, Santo Tomas, and L.A. Cetto wineries have accumulated the most gold and silver awards with many other artisan and boutique wineries making global news by producing high quality wines. In a recent interview with a top international wine writer/expert he mentioned that (in his opinion) Mexico now produces some of the best Nebbiolo and Grenache in the world. Our promoting via the Baja Times has attracted international attention, articles and visits from: Food and Wine Magazine, Sommelier Magazine, Sacramento Daily Bee, WinesandVines.com, Slow Food San Diego, Gambero Rosso of Italy, numerous writers, chefs and connoisseurs. Now, with the support of Varivision TV and our web pages, we are taking Baja Wine Country News and the Baja California wine and gourmet cuisine revolution to the attention of Global wine and food lovers. Lucky for us, the “real stars” are the Mexican winemakers and chefs, giving us media communicators, an abundant supply of noteworthy international news.

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico’s premier wine country where he guides small group wine tours: sbdryden@hotmail.com and www.winefoodguide.com

The Wonderful World of Washington Wines

Washington State is the second largest producer of wine in North America and has over 600 wineries scattered about eleven distinct (AVAs) American Viticulture Areas. In 2008, about six million cases of wine were produced from over twenty grape varieties, creating fifty-two percent white and forty-eight percent red wine. The wine industry generates about $3 billion annually for the state’s economy and provides over 14,000 jobs. Today, approximately 35,000 acres are planted in Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillion, Gewurztraminer, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Nebbiolo, Sangiovese, Petite Verdot and others. In addition, Washington State was the first American wine region to receive the prestigious “Wine Region of the Year” from Wine Enthusiast magazine. So, it might be time for you to explore the wonderful wines of Washington and discover the great values and superb quality. As far as North America wines are concerned, you just can’t beat Washington wines when it come to quality at affordable pricing ~ and the rich flavors are incredible.

Every Spring I travel to the Northwest and explore the various wine regions of Oregon, Washington, Idaho and British Columbia. This April I decided to visit the legendary urban wineries of Spokane, Washington. I first discovered Washington wines in the early 1990’s as a member of the North Idaho Oenological Society where we explored the many diverse wines produced by fifty wineries with an emphasis on white varietals. During that period of time the wine industry was just beginning to shift focus towards red wine production. Over the years, two grape varieties grown in Washington have captured and captivated my palate, Viognier and Syrah. Of course, there are many other outstanding wines of superior quality produced there, but I have a special interest in and appetite for Viognier and Syrah. Here, in the wine country of Baja California Norte, we produce wine from both Viognier and Syrah grapes which gives me some opportunity for comparison of the same varietals, but grown in different climatic habitats, in various soils, influenced by unique weather, and produced using distinct winemaking styles.

In 1990 the most prominent winery in Spokane was Arbor Crest winery with their historical mansion sitting atop a cliff overlooking the Spokane River. Two brothers, David and Harold Mielke purchased the historical property in 1982 and made plans to expand from growing fruit into the wine industry. In their early days of wine production the “fruit forward” white wines were made by winemaker Scott Harris and were of moderate quality. At one time they were one of the largest producers of wine in Washington, but over the years as the emerging wine industry produced better quality wines in the region, Arbor Crest slowly lost popularity due to a change in the market and consumer demands.

That all started to change dramatically in 1999 when Jim and Kristina van Loben Sels took over management of the family operation. Kristina is the daughter of Harold Mielke and was now armed with a degree in Fermentation Science from UC Davis and assisted by her husband Jim who earned his degree at UC Davis in Viticulture and Irrigation Management. Now, this dynamic couple have pooled their skills and talents into building one the region’s top wineries. According to Jim “ we focus on creating food friendly wines that are soft, well-balanced, accented with flavors from aging in French oak.” One key factor in their success has been the selection of high quality grapes from some of the best and oldest vineyards in the Columbia Valley. Their 2006 Syrah is fabulous full-bodied wine with black cherry and blueberry flavors ~ a super value for $20, as is their 2005 Dionysus, a premium, complex Bordeaux blend that retails for $45. Jim and Kristina have a nice selection of wines and are rapidly moving to the “top of the pack” with their production of premium wines. Visit their web site to review their portfolio of wines, schedule of special events, pricing and shipping information at: www.arborcrest.com

I found several “bottled treasures of delight” at Barrister Winery in the historic Davenport District of downtown Spokane. Under the guidance and direction of Greg Lipsker, one of the two owners, my palate was exposed to several barrel and bottle samples of outstanding wines. Their 2006 Cabernet Franc is their signature wine, of excellent quality, basically a steal for serious wine lovers at $27. The 2006 Syrah from Morrison Lane Vineyard in Walla Walla, Washington is considered by many to be one of the best Syrahs in the country. This wine is unbelievable, with dark plum, blackberry, spice and violets aromas, flavors of black cherry with hints of cocoa and spice. Greg explains to me, “our winery is a low tech, low production operation, everything is done by hand, we only made 118 cases of this Syrah, and we put everything we have into creating this wine. It’s a wine to be proud of.” And, he’s right, it is one of the best wines I’ve tasted in this region. In addition, Greg is one of the best hosts I’ve experienced in many years working in the industry. He makes it fun for wine tasters at all levels, and eagerly shares his passion and knowledge with his guests. The ambient winery is located in a 20,000 foot brick warehouse with several levels, offering ample room for weddings, special events, wine dinners and other wine related activities. Contact them for shipping, prices or special event information at: www.barristerwinery.com.

My final surprise came in the form of an invitation to the “opening night” for one of the newest (and smallest) wineries in Washington. Barili Cellars is also located in the historic Davenport district of downtown Spokane, and it was the first “artisan” operation I discovered within the urban winery scene. This cozy operation is intimate and personal. Steve’s remarkably upbeat personality and charm has set the tone for a winning formula, and the wines were excellent as well. I took the Dryden Family Tasting Team along on this trip, my son, Derek, his wife and friends, aided me in the exploration of their three wines, Viognier, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend. We all were in agreement that the wines were very good, the romance and charm of the tasting room is supreme, and that these guys will do extremely well in the industry. The current wine production is limited to less than ten barrels of handcrafted wines.

The Barili 2008 Viognier has a beautiful bouquet with subtle citrus flavors, balanced acidity, and a smooth finish. Fermented in stainless steel tanks with no oak aging or additives. The grapes were sourced from the Seth Ryan Estate in the renown Red Mountain AVA. This is a great wine for $19. Their 2008 Chardonnay is a “real deal” at $15. Barrel fermentation in a combination of American and French oak barrels with an additional secondary fermentation (MLF) allowing for classic a buttery flavor, but with an amazing and unique hint of fresh marshmallows and vanilla cream. We all loved this refreshing wine and will return for more to pair up with various culinary wonders featured at gourmet restaurants in the district. The final red wine is called “Double Barrel Red” featuring a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. These grapes come from the Walla Walla AVA creating a potent (15% alcohol) 50/50 blend of premium grade wine. Rich flavors of black cherry, coffee, mocha and caramel make for an outstanding value at $20. This is the type of artisan winery that one can follow from the beginning and grow with their richness as they emerge and evolve. Visit: www.barilicellars.com

Our evening ended with dinner at the award-winning Europa Italian Restaurant and bakery, located about half a block from Barili Cellars. In fact, we purchased a bottle of their “Double Barrel” red blend to pair-up with the Italian cuisine at Europa. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah blend matched well with Europa Lasagna, made with home-made meat sausage, black olives, and a blend of three cheeses. The wine was soft and balanced enough to compliment the Chicken Marsala, pan seared chicken breast with a mushroom marsala sauce, served with garlic roasted mashed potatoes and seasonal vegetables. We over-indulged with several pompous desserts of various cheese cakes and other culinary delights. The prices here are reasonable, the service and food are superior at 125 South Wall Street. No food deliveries to Baja California!

I do get around in the “world of wines” and I’ve discovered that Washington State has premium wines with super value pricing for the quality. In fact, their wines are really hard to beat. When you factor in the quality of the soil, the pure water, the clean air, the long growing season, and the many talented winemakers, it’s not hard to understand why the wines are so dynamic and rich. One final important element is that most vines grown in Washington are grown on their original roots, no grafting needed here because the cold winters kill most pests and diseases. This allows the vines to fully express the natural character and flavors of the fruit. What do I really think about Washington wines? Well, I’m going back in four weeks to chase those fabulous Syrahs, so what does that tell you…..

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Valle de Guadalupe where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com or www.bajawineandtours.com

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Serious wine lovers might want to explore the dynamic wines coming out of the Paso Robles region before the rest of the world discovers the phenomenal quality and value coming from this small California wine producing area. Actually, this “distinct” wine region does have a total area of 600,000 acres, but is currently planted with about 30,000 vineyard acres of forty different varietals. The Paso wine country is the fastest growing wine region in California with over 200 wineries to date. The earliest plantings of Spanish varietals took place in 1797, then expanded with Italian plantings (Zinfandel-Primitivo) before moving into Bordeaux and most recently Rhone varietals.  Today, Paso Robles wines are catching the attention of world’s keenly focused and informed wine connoisseurs, particularly due to the amazing quality of the 2007 vintage.

In February we filmed for our wine and food adventure show, The Grapevine, at the Paso Robles Grand Tasting Tour in San Diego. Our crew and show hosts experienced an informative and educational seminar hosted by Stacie Jacob of the Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance. In addition, we participated in a discussion with two professional winemakers and a General Manager: Jason Haas of Tablas Creek, Austin Hope of Hope Family Wines and Stephen Asseo of L’ Aventure. The wine related conversations among this gang of “free spirited” wineries clearly showed that these dynamic individuals are serious at their craft of creating world class wines. Despite the convincing dialog, it was the samples of wines featured in a vertical tasting that proved their point.

Jason Haas of Tablas Creek presented a refreshing sample of 2001 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, 44% Roussanne, 22% Viognier, 18% Grenache Blanc and 16% Marisanne. This was followed with the 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, 68% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc and 10% Picpoul. I loved the rich, spicy fruit with hints of butterscotch in the 2001 and found the 2007 to be a little richer, sweeter, with a pinch of white pepper, and of excellent quality. We sampled a 1999 Reserve Cuvee of 40% Mourvedre, 27% Grenache, 23% Syrah, and 10% Counoise which was followed by the 2007 Esprit de Beaucastel, 44% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache, 21% Syrah, and 6% Counoise. The 1999 is dynamic, deep tannins upfront, defined chalkiness, followed by ripe fruit flavors of cherries and blueberries, anise, with hints of coffee and mocha. The 2007 is remarkable, rich, ripe cherries, Mission fig, notes of cocoa, with a delightful long finish. Tablas Creek winery is setting the standards for the emerging Rhone varietal wines coming out of Paso Robles. One thing that stands out is their total commitment to the environment and their consumers, with organic farming, no toxic chemicals and an abundance of respect for nature. Personally, I’d drink their wine just because of their philosophy, despite the fact that  all they produce are “world class” wines.

Austin Hope, winemaker for Hope Family poured a 2000 Treana Red, 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Syrah, and 10% Merlot that was followed by his 2007 Treana Red, 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 30% Syrah. Both wines are exceptional, but I really enjoyed the excellent 2007 with blackberries, fig, mocha, wonderful finish ending with soft tannins. Austin Hope is a member of the new generation of winemakers that is moving this region to the “top of the charts” with the creation of exceptional wines. In addition, he is a dynamic person with strong leadership and communication skills.

Stephen Asseo, winemaker for L’ Aventure presented his 2001 Estate Cuvee followed with his 2007 Estate Cuvee. His 2001 Cuvee is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Petit Verdot and 20% Syrah. His 2007 Cuvee is a completely different blend of 49% Syrah, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Petit Verdot. The 2001 has 20% Syrah while the 2007 is predominately 49% Syrah. Both wines are exceptional, the 2001 has about 16% alcohol, fruit forward with hints of anise, coffee and red licorice. The 2007 has ripe black cherry fruit, mocha, toast, complex and well balanced, a superb wine of exceptional quality. L’ Aventure wines are a reflection of their vines and the talent of Stephen Asseo. He was trained as an Enologist in Burgundy, France and moved to Paso Robles driven by his “spirit of adventure” to handcraft wines of distinct character.

Our film crew made our own “adventure” as we moved into the Grand Tasting room to expose our palates to the wines and talent of the winemakers from Paso. Terry Hoage poured three amazing wines of the 2007 vintage made from various combinations of Grenache, Syrah and Mouverdre. One of our favorites was from Four Vines, a stunning 2007 Petite Sirah, Paso Robles Heretic. It is one of the most elegant Petite Sirahs I’ve experienced so far, amazing bouquet on the nose, with rich ripe plum and boysenberry flavors. Edward Sellers presented an awesome GSM blend, 2007 Le Thief,  which validates the “theory” that Paso can produce “world class” Rhone varietal wines. Another impressive winery is Eberle. They poured a diverse portfolio of Rhone blends, a Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignons, and a Muscat Canelli. I was taken aback by their 2007 Steinbeck and Wine Bush Vineyard Zinfandel with rich boysenberry fruit, with a hint of herbs and pinch of white pepper. This winery is the one who brought early attention to Paso with the creation of “world class” Cabernet Sauvignon. And, of course everyone loves Halter Ranch wines, but they are under-priced for the quality, particularly with their 2006 Estate Grown Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon.

We discovered that Paso Robles vintners have “quietly” moved to the “top of the charts” with the 2005 and 2007 vintages. Our dedicated team of wine educators did our best to taste all the wines presented, and despite much effort, we didn’t find a wine that wasn’t exceptional. The next time someone tells me that they make better wine than California, I’ll ask then when they last tasted a Paso Robles wine. It all started with remarkable Zinfandels, Cabernet Sauvignon, and now Rhone varietal blends. Paso Robles has emerged and evolved into the newest “Shinning Star” in California, I wonder when folks will see it? Hopefully, it won’t take three wise men on camels (with a decanter) to show wine lovers the way to the promise land…..

Steve Dryden is a wine, food and travel writer living in Mexico’s premier wine country where he guides individual and small group wine tours. He can be reached at: sbdryden@hotmail.com